Demi-Glace
A 48–72 hour reduction, done properly
The demi-glace in the braise is this preparation.
Shin, oxtail and tendon braised in merlot and set in their own gelatin, frozen as pucks and baked in individual puff pastry pies.
The South African garage pie, made as individual pies in 120 mm foil tins. Shin cubes and oxtail are dry-brined overnight, browned in the oven and braised for 3 h in a reduced mixed-bone stock, reduced merlot and demi-glace. Shin tendons cook whole in the stock overnight, then go into the filling. The braising liquid chills overnight, loses its fat cap and is reduced until it sets firm. No starch goes in. The filling is portioned into 200 g pucks and frozen. Each pie gets a frozen puck in a puff pastry case, baked on a hot baking steel. The thin foil and the frozen filling keep the base dry with no blind bake. Bake 6 at a time and keep the rest of the pucks frozen. Black pepper goes in twice: on the meat before browning and into the finished filling.
Changed from one large pie in a glass dish to individual forecourt-style pies in 120 mm foil tins. The filling is now frozen as 200 g pucks so pies can be baked in batches of 6.
Meat: short rib removed, because it breaks into strands. Boneless shin cut into 25 mm cubes holds its shape as chunks, like the garage pie. Oxtail stays for gelatin. Thick tendons from the shin trim are cooked whole in the stock overnight and folded into the filling. A 3 h braise left tendons chewy in an earlier cook.
Method: the meat is dry-brined overnight and browned on trays in the oven, not seared in batches. The braise uses a fresh mixed-bone brown stock reduced from 3 l to 1.5 l, not water. The merlot is reduced separately the day before.
Gravy: no cornstarch. The filling is frozen, and a starch gel weeps after freezing. Gelatin from the oxtail, the reduced stock and the demi-glace sets the filling.
Pastry: blind bake, egg-white seal, breadcrumbs and paper sling removed. Thin foil tins on a preheated baking steel, with a frozen puck inside, keep the base dry. Henglein XXL palm-fat puff pastry replaces the small Edeka sheets.
Scaled to 1.5 times the first batch. The braise and the tendons were cooked. The day-3 filling, the pucks and the pie bake are the plan, not yet cooked.
Start the mixed-bone brown stock. It must simmer overnight before the braise.
Separate the shin into its muscles along the natural seams.
Cut off the silver skin and the hard fat. Keep the white connective tissue.
Silver skin is mostly elastin and stays rubbery. White connective tissue is collagen and becomes gelatin.
Cut out the thick tendons. Put them whole into the simmering stock.
Tendon needs 13 h or more below the boil to become soft. A 3 h braise leaves it chewy.
Cut the muscles across the grain into 25 mm cubes.
Dry the shin cubes and the oxtail. Sprinkle the salt on all sides: 6 g on the shin, 5 g on the oxtail.
Put the meat in one layer on a rack. Refrigerate it uncovered overnight.
Simmer the merlot until 550 ml remain. Refrigerate it.
Keep the wine 2 to 3 °C below its boiling point: approximately 88 °C at the start and 94 °C at the end. A hard boil makes the tannin harsh.
Take the tendons out of the stock. Cool them, then refrigerate them.
Strain the stock. Remove the fat while it is hot.
Set the oven to 220 °C, fan.
Toss the meat with the flour and the black pepper. Add the oil and toss again.
Spread the meat on two trays in one layer. Roast for 25 min. Turn the meat and change the trays after 12 min.
Heat the oil in the braising pot on medium heat. Cook the onion until golden.
Add the brandy. Scrape the base of the pot clean.
Set the oven to 150 °C, conventional heat.
Put the meat in the pot. Pour a ladle of stock onto each hot tray. Scrape the trays and add the liquid to the pot.
Add the merlot, the demi-glace, the Worcestershire sauce, the crushed tomatoes, the thyme and the bay leaves.
Add stock until the liquid is two thirds of the way up the meat. Bring to a bare simmer.
Cover. Braise in the oven for 3 h. Stir once after 90 min.
Test the shin. A cube must give easily but keep its shape. Lift out the shin.
If the large oxtail pieces are still firm on the bone, braise them for 45 to 60 min more. Check every 20 min.
The thick joints from the base of the tail needed more than 3 h in this batch. They are done when the meat shrinks back from the bone.
Pick the oxtail meat off the bones while it is warm. Discard the bones.
Strain the liquid into a tall container.
Cut the cold tendons into 15 to 20 mm pieces. Mix them with the meat.
Refrigerate the meat and the liquid in separate containers overnight.
The liquid sets to a jelly under a cap of fat.
Lift the fat cap off the jelly. Do not use it in the pies.
The stock holds lamb bones. Most of the lamb taste is in the fat.
Melt the jelly. Reduce it until it coats a spoon thickly, to approximately 700 ml.
Do not add starch. The filling is frozen, and a starch gel weeps after freezing.
Taste. Adjust the salt and the Worcestershire sauce.
Fold in the meat, the tendons and the black pepper.
Refrigerate until the filling is set but you can scoop it.
Line a 90 mm bowl with cling film. Press in 200 g of filling. Turn it out onto a tray with baking paper.
The flat side goes down in the tin. The dome holds up the lid.
Freeze the pucks uncovered until they are hard. Do not let them touch.
Wrap each puck tightly in cling film. Put the pucks in a freezer bag and remove the air.
Use within 3 months.
Put a baking steel on the lowest shelf. Set the oven to 220 °C.
Roll the pastry to 2.5 mm. Cut 6 circles of 180 mm for the bases.
Line six 120 mm foil tins with the bases. Leave 10 mm of overhang.
Use tins approximately 30 mm deep.
Stack the offcuts flat and roll them to 3 mm. Cut 6 circles of 130 mm for the lids.
Do not knead the offcuts into a ball. Stacking keeps the layers.
Put a frozen puck in each tin. Do not thaw the pucks.
Take the pucks out of the freezer one at a time.
Brush the rim with water. Put on the lid. Crimp the edge with a fork.
Cut a vent hole in the centre of each lid.
Beat the egg yolk with the milk. Brush the lids.
To bake later, freeze the raw pies on a tray, then bag them. Bake them from frozen in the same way.
Put the tins on the hot steel. Bake for 15 min.
Lower the oven to 190 °C. Bake for 45 to 50 min, until deep golden.
If the lids are dark before the end, cover them loosely with foil.
Put a probe through the vent. The centre must be 75 °C or more.
The assembled pie goes from the freezer into a 200 °C oven. A sudden change in temperature can crack glass.
Pyrex sold in Europe is borosilicate glass, which tolerates this well. A soda-lime glass dish is less tolerant.
Freeze for 15 to 20 min only. Do not freeze the dish solid. Put it on a baking sheet at room temperature, never on a hot sheet or a wet surface.
Not tried. A butter and lard shortcrust base takes up less water than puff pastry and holds a heavy filling better. Keep puff pastry for the lid only. Suggested base: 225 g plain flour, 60 g butter, 60 g lard, 1 egg yolk, 45 ml ice water.
At 3 h in the 150 °C oven, the shin cubes were tender. The large oxtail joints from the base of the tail were still firm on the bone.
The joints are much thicker than the tip pieces, and they hold more connective tissue. Lift out the shin and give the oxtail more time, so the shin does not break into shreds.
The pepper steak pie sold at South African petrol stations. This version must have pastry on all sides and must come out of the dish whole.
A 48–72 hour reduction, done properly
The demi-glace in the braise is this preparation.
Roasted beef, marrow, chicken and lamb bones held at a light simmer overnight, with no salt
A brown stock made for the braise of the South African pepper steak pie. Beef bones and marrow bones roast first.
The plain idea under this dish. Cook it with what you have. The full recipe is on the Method tab.
collagen-rich beef in chunks + black pepper in two parts + browned aromatics + reduced red wine and reduced stock braising liquid + gelatin set with no starch + frozen puck in a puff pastry case on a hot steel
Other dishes with this pattern: braise.
Boneless beef shin in 25 mm cubes, oxtail, and shin tendons.
Shin gives chunks that hold their shape. Oxtail and tendon give the gelatin that sets the filling.
Salt as a dry brine. Coarsely cracked black pepper in two parts: on the meat and into the finished filling.
Pepper is the main taste of a pepper steak pie. The second part keeps a fresh, sharp pepper taste.
Onion, garlic, tomato paste, thyme and bay leaves.
Browned onion and tomato paste give a sweet, roasted base to the gravy.
Brandy, merlot reduced by half, mixed-bone brown stock reduced by half, demi-glace, Worcestershire sauce and crushed tomatoes.
Reduced liquids bring concentrated gelatin and taste, so less reduction is needed after the braise.
Gelatin only. The chilled liquid loses its fat cap and is reduced until it coats a spoon thickly.
A gelatin set melts back into gravy in the oven and does not weep after freezing.
Palm-fat puff pastry: 180 mm bases at 2.5 mm, 130 mm lids at 3 mm, in 120 mm foil tins. Egg yolk and milk glaze.
Thin foil on a hot steel and a frozen puck keep the base dry with no blind bake.
The full recipe explains why each part works. Thin foil conducts heat approximately 200 times faster than glass, and a frozen puck must melt before the gelatin can, so the base sets with no blind bake. Tendon needs 13 h or more below the boil, so it cooks in the stock, not in the braise. Starch weeps after freezing, so the gravy is set by gelatin from oxtail, tendon, reduced stock and demi-glace only. It adds the shin trim (keep collagen, remove elastin silver skin), the 200 g puck press, the freezing order (open freeze, then wrap) and the pastry sizes for a 120 mm tin.
What is actually happening in the dish, and why the techniques work.
Oxtail, shin and short rib all hold a lot of collagen. Collagen converts to gelatin slowly from 70 °C and much faster above 80 °C. The long braise dissolves it into the liquid.
Below approximately 40 °C, dissolved gelatin sets to a gel. So the chilled liquid sets to a firm jelly, and the fat rises and sets as a cap that lifts off in one piece.
The cold filling goes into the pastry as a solid. A solid filling gives off less steam and no free liquid while the base sets. In the oven the gel melts again and becomes the gravy.
This is why the filling must be cold, not warm, when the pie is assembled.
Puff pastry takes up water fast because it is thin layers of dough and butter. The base needs three barriers.
Blind bake. Heat drives water out of the pastry and sets the starch into a rigid structure before the filling touches it.
Egg white. Egg white proteins set from approximately 62 °C into a thin film that water does not easily cross. Brush it on the hot base so it sets at once.
Breadcrumbs. Dry crumbs take up the first liquid that meets the base.
The frozen assembled pie then goes into a hot oven on the lowest shelf. The butter in the pastry is still solid, so its water turns to steam and lifts the layers. The base gets direct heat before the filling warms enough to give off steam.
Reducing the wine by half in the open pot boils off most of the alcohol and concentrates its acid, sugar and tannin. In the closed braise the alcohol cannot leave, and a raw wine taste stays in the gravy.
Wine tannins bind to protein. Against the fat and gelatin of the filling they read as structure, not as bitterness.
Aluminium conducts heat approximately 200 times faster than borosilicate glass: approximately 237 W/m K against 1.1. On a preheated steel, heat goes through the foil into the pastry base in minutes. The base dries and its starch sets before the filling can wet it.
The frozen puck delays the filling. It must take up the heat of melting, approximately 334 J/g of water, before the gelatin can melt at approximately 35 to 40 °C. During that time the base bakes with nothing wet against it.
The cold puck also keeps the fat in the base pastry solid until the pie goes in the oven. Solid fat lets the water in the dough turn to steam between the layers, so the base puffs and does not go leathery.
Tendon is almost pure collagen, packed tightly and bonded across its fibres. The bonds get stronger as the animal ages and as the muscle works. They resist heat much more than the loose collagen around the muscle cubes.
A 3 h braise softens the cubes but only starts on the tendon. In an earlier cook, tendon from a braise stayed chewy.
Cook the tendon whole in the stock overnight, at a light simmer. Cut it when it is cold and set. Add it to the meat after the braise, so it does not cook a second time and fall apart.
Cornstarch is approximately 25 percent amylose. Amylose is a straight-chain starch. In the cold and during freezing, the chains line up again and push water out of the gel. The gravy then weeps. This is retrogradation.
Gelatin sets by a reversible network. Ice can loosen it a little, but it melts back into gravy in the oven.
So this filling gets its body from reduction only: oxtail, tendon, the reduced stock and the demi-glace.
A revision is written when the dish changes, and the version it replaces is kept. Beside each is a sentence describing what the dish became — the part a cook can act on.
Changed from one large pie in a glass dish to individual forecourt-style pies in 120 mm foil tins. The filling is now frozen as 200 g pucks so pies can be baked in batches of 6. Meat: short rib removed, because it breaks into strands. Boneless shin cut into 25 mm cubes holds its shape as chunks, like the garage pie. Oxtail stays for gelatin. Thick tendons from the shin trim are cooked whole in the stock overnight and folded into the filling. A 3 h braise left tendons chewy in an earlier cook. Method: the meat is dry-brined overnight and browned on trays in the oven, not seared in batches. The braise uses a fresh mixed-bone brown stock reduced from 3 l to 1.5 l, not water. The merlot is reduced separately the day before. Gravy: no cornstarch. The filling is frozen, and a starch gel weeps after freezing. Gelatin from the oxtail, the reduced stock and the demi-glace sets the filling. Pastry: blind bake, egg-white seal, breadcrumbs and paper sling removed. Thin foil tins on a preheated baking steel, with a frozen puck inside, keep the base dry. Henglein XXL palm-fat puff pastry replaces the small Edeka sheets. Scaled to 1.5 times the first batch. The braise and the tendons were cooked. The day-3 filling, the pucks and the pie bake are the plan, not yet cooked.
First record. Written from the cook with 1 large oxtail, 1 kg short rib, 2 shin slices and one bottle of merlot reduced into the braise, with Edeka puff pastry in a glass dish.